Process 085 ☼ Tokyo Fish Market Adventure

GIVEAWAY: Photography inspired products by Photogenic Supply

Dear friends,

This week’s letter is about an adventure I had in Tokyo when I snuck into the largest fish market in the world. It was a thrilling experience.

This week’s PROCESS GIVEAWAY is photography inspired products created by Photogenic Supply, an independent design studio in Philadelphia.

---

Tsukiji Fish Market

I knew I wasn’t allowed in, certainly not with my camera, but I had to try since Tokyo’s most important fish market was reportedly being moved after 80 years in the same location. Also, an article was being written and images were needed.

At this point, I had been in Tokyo for about two months when the request came in. The talented Sarah Baird was writing an article about the polical goings on surrounding the pending move of the Tsujiki Fish Market. Many had opposed the move for various reasons and the whole process had dragging along for years.

While the outer market in Tsujiki was open to the public, the inner sanctum was only accessible for fish traders. They did not allow visitors during the early morning hours when the auctions were taking place. Since I didn’t quite match the visual profile of a Tokyo fish trader I knew it would be a challenging assignment.

The tuna auctions started around 5.30am and I had to travel about 45 minutes to get there. Aafter my earliest cup of tea ever I made my way over via public transportation. It was a bit of a rainy day so without thinking I put on my bright yellow rain jacket, which in hindsight wasn’t the most obvious choice when trying to be inconspicuous.

Once I arrived it was still a brisk walk through sleepy Tsujiki. As I neared the area blips of life started to appear in the form of fast-racing carts with stacks of styrofoam boxes on the back. Streets were getting narrowing and the pace was picking up.

I walked through rows of parked trucks that were the drop off spots for the racing karts which meant the auctions must’ve already started. So far no one batted an eye at my bright yellow camera-holding presence and things were going well.

The amount of activity was now ramping up to a pretty frantic pace. I had to dodge and weave through the coming and going of the racing karts and it felt like I was in a video game. Every day almost 3,000 tonnes of fish passed through Tsukiji market at this time, which I was told was roughly 90% of all fish sales in Tokyo, so it took a lot of buyers, sellers, and workers to keep this place going.

As I walked up to the massive building I spotted security guards at the first entrance and pondered my strategy. I had my camera tucked away, hoping that would make me stand out less. In hindsight, at 6'4" with a beard and wearing, oh yea great idea, a bright yellow rain jacket, I had no chance of not being noticed.

My hope was that I could just kind of walk in if I looked like I felt I belonged. I was spotted immediately and told politely that I would not be allowed in through this entrance. I thanked the security people and continue to walk around the perimeter and scanned other entrances. They all had the same set up and it was just not going to happen this way. I started to worry about not getting the pictures and disappointing the writer who was hard at work at an important article.

I had almost circled the market when my fortunes changed. A giant of a fish monger in all white forcefully kicked open a small side door and walked out with a giant styrofoam box full of fish. I saw my opportunity and bolted for the door as it was closing. I caught it in time and popped into a giant concrete maze that was very poorly lit and glistening everywhere from melting ice and water used to clean the floors.

I was immediately met by another worker in white who was about to go through the same door. I thought this would be the end of the adventure but he smiled and winked. He knew I wasn’t supposed to be there but he didn’t seem to mind. I took my camera out to take his portrait but by the time I looked back up he had disappeared.

I had set my camera to silent mode so the shutter sound wouldn’t disturb anyone and so I would be a little harder to spot in case someone went looking for me. For the following two hours I made my way through a fascinating world of auction stalls and narrow pathways and giant headless tuna fish and unexpectedly large knives and so many styrofoam boxes. I felt like I was on a trip into another world altogether and snapped away hoping to properly document the rituals and methods of Tsujiki.

I made an effort to not be in the way and always make eye contact with everyone before I took their picture. No one seemed to mind my presence and for a while I forgot that I wasn’t really allowed to be there. Once in a while I’d spot a security person a few aisles over but thankfully they didn’t seem to spot me.

Watching the women and men of the fish market work was exciting and interesting. They all seemed to have a sort of short-hand as everything moved fluidly, deals were made, and giant fish were cut into smaller pieces.

Many stalls has beautiful thin slivers of fish to represent a certain whole fish. This so customers could make their choice in the most informed way.

The experience and what I got to see was endlessly interesting both on a cultural level and an aesthetic one. I could have taken photos for the entire day, but after two hours I was finally spotted and asked to leave, which I did. On the way out I saw the same fish monger who had winked at me and he smiled again as I was being escorted out.

As I walked out I was thrilled and my adrenaline was still high from what I had just seen and how it all happened. I was grateful that all the people I photographed gave me a nod or a smile and let me roam around and document this special place.

Not long after these photos were taken the inner market was closed and moved to nearby Toyosu while the outer market remains open for normal retail shopping. I’m so glad this adventure played out the way it did and I got the chance to document this iconic and history place before they closed it down.

To read the original Eater article with words by the very talented Sarah Baird and a different selection of images, go here.

PS You already know this but all my film work is developed and scanned by my friends at Carmencita Film Lab. Use code “PROCESS” at check out to get a free size upgrade.

---

That’s it for this week!

Next week we will dive into some composition insights I’ve learned over the years.

Keep shooting and take good care of yourselves and others.

Wesley

PS Shout out to Taylor Foster who helped me with the image selection for this issue and created the thumbnail like he has been doing for quite a few issues now.

PPS Said yellow rain jacket in action.

Picture credit: Zach Fackrell (left), Helena Price (right).

---

Process Giveaway!

This week’s giveaway is a PRIZE courtesy of my friends at Photogenic Supply Co based in Philadelphia. One winner will receive a copy of The Photographer's Coloring Book full of gorgeous technical drawings of cameras, and a Set of 3 Photographer’s Socks to wear on your next photowalk.

To enter this Photogenic Supply Giveaway answer the question below in the comment section for this issue:

QUESTION: Who is your favorite female photographer, and why?

My answer is: Mary Ellen Mark who is also possibly my favorite photographer of all time. I love the way she was able to access sensitive parts of the human experience with great kindness and nuance, but without leaving out the parts that might be difficult to look at. I also love her longevity and insatiable curiosity. Look her up!

Can’t wait to hear your answers, and feel free to link to websites too so we can all get inspired by your suggestion.

The winner will be randomly drawn. This giveaway is for Process subscribers only.

Major shout out to my friends at Photogenic Supply for sponsoring this giveaway. Check out their webshop for more goods inspired by photography.

---

Did you enjoy this issue? Share it with a friend who might love it too.

Can’t get enough? Browse the Process Archives.

Find me on Glass / LinkedIn / Instagram / Twitter / Pocket / YouTube